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posted on November 30, 2009 at 04:51PM Inappropriate?

What is the difference between a humidifier and a dehumidifier? My befroom is too dry because of the type of heat we have. Do I need a humidifier or a dehumidifier

replies: 9 latest post: April 07, 2010 at 01:13PM by flagdaddy
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posted on December 08, 2009 at 05:40PM
 

Humidifiers put additional moisture into the air, while dehumidifiers remove unwanted moisture.  Generally, most HVAC systems require neither because forced convection air conditioning systems automatically remove excess moisture in the summer (when you'd want the humidity to be at a lower level for comfort), while heating systems do not remove humidity in the winter (when it's already relatively low in cold environments).  Nevertheless, depending upon the way your house was built, the HVAC system used, your climate, and your personal preferences, sometimes it's preferred to add or remove humidity. In these cases homeowners may want to add a little extra humidity (using a humidifier) in the winter and possibly remove excess humidity in the summer (using a dehumidifier).  Keep in mind that although both humidifiers and dehumidifiers do use additional electricity, energy can often be saved because part of your perception of indoor temperature is dependent upon humidity level.  As a result, removing a bit more humidity in the summer may cause you to perceive a higher temperature as more comfortable, and adding a bit more humidity in the winter may cause you to perceive a lower temperature is more comfortable, allowing you to set your thermostat at a more cost-effective setting.

posted on December 18, 2009 at 05:49PM
 

There are a number problems with any dehumidifier currently on the market from any retailer.  The first one is that the information given in the website or in catalogs is very insufficient to know what you are buying, or what you should expect, which probably causes a lot of returns and customer annoyance.  The number of negative comments right on this page clearly supports this.

Traditionally, dehumidifiers in the $ 200 class, such as Kenmore 30-40 pint models of the 1990's, had a "humidistat" which would turn everything off when a pre-set humidity level was reached, and then cycle the machine back on when it was needed.  Not necessarily anymore!  Now, the descriptions make lame comments about LED humidity indicators and blower speeds and fail to mention whether a humidstat is used which shuts the whole thing off when the cycle is complete.  Apparently this is because virtually all of these machines are now produced in China to a Chinese design, most of which shut the compressor off and on yet leave the loud fan running.  If you have one of these new machines inside a dwelling area, it's extremely annoying to have to go manually turn it off when the pre-set humidity level has been reached.  What on earth was the big deal about having a humidistat which turned the whole thing off when done, and turned it on again as needed?  That sounds more "Green" to me than the "new" ones!

Next, the reason the majority of these fail is because the refrigerant leaks out due to failures of the tubing seals and failures of the compressor internal connection to the external plumbing.  The compressors are not designed to be repaired or refilled.  The older Kenmore compressors were usually made in Brazil and lasted 8-10 years.  The new ones in anyone's dehumidifier last about 3 years because they are made in China.  Therefore plan on your dehumidifier lasting just three years.  The extended service contracts usually end before then...what a surprise!

Although all dehumidifiers are noisy, fans in these are not noisy because they have to be.  They are noisy because the manufacturer has tried to make the fan blade and motor smaller and cheaper.  The faster a fan turns, the louder it is.  The other thing is that in the past few years the fans have changed from a metal blade to plastic squirrel cage design, and the squirrel cage is louder.  None of the descriptions state how many pints are removed per 24 hours per blower speed.  My guess is that it only happens at high blower speed, and then only if you are lucky.

If you want to know how much power the dehumidifier uses, go to the Grainger website and look at a comparable machine with equal pint capacity, which will state the number of Amps.  The Sears should be comparable and costs less.

Another issue - the dehumidifiers currently on the market typically use cheap plastic tactile switch control panels with bubble-like pushbuttons, which are fastened to the housing with a sticky-back adhesive.  Several examples I examined had bubbles in the adhesive backed laminate panel, suggesting that the whole thing would start peeling up in due course.

The bottom line is to get a machine with as large a pint capacity as you can afford, insist on one one with a humidistat which will turn it off totally when the pre-set humidity level is reached, and don't expect it to last longer than three years. 

As far as this web page goes, Sears should have its legal department review the rules.  Recent FTC regulations provide that it is illegal for persons employed by a manufacturer or retailer of a product to appear on blog or forum sites and make comments in support of a product without clearly identifying themselves as such.  In this case, there are consumers mixed in with Sears employees and in some instances it isn't clear which is which. 

 

 

 

 

 

posted on December 18, 2009 at 06:00PM
 
In response to WB6NVH's post from December 18 2009 05:49PM

I would very much appreciate a link to those FTC regulations.

posted on December 18, 2009 at 06:15PM
 

lizglea,

What type of heat do you have?  

posted on December 18, 2009 at 11:05PM
 
In response to WB6NVH's post from December 18 2009 05:49PM

Oh my goodness.

Dehumidifiers continue to use humidistats. The LEDs are mentioned in contrast to the old-fashioned dial controls. It has nothing to do with how humidity is detected. The fan turns off when the desired humidity level is reached, along with the compressor. The whole thing turns on again when the humidity reaches a certain threshold above the desired humidity level.

The compressors in Kenmore dehumidifiers are Korean-made LG compressors, rather than Embraco (Whirlpool). They are no more prone to leaks than Embraco brand. The main difference is a lower price (which Americans demand).

The warranty on the sealed refrigeration system, including the compressor, is five years. It has been five years for quite a long time. The other components (fan, electronics, housing, filters, etc.) are not covered for five years. When a component has its own warranty, that's generally a statement that it's so rare for there to be an issue with that component that they're willing to throw around much longer terms of coverage. Hence the 10 year and lifetime warranties on certain washing machine components.

Generally, the refrigeration system is not an issue; it's usually the fan that ends up failing, because the bushings end up wearing out. Having the bushings replaced is usually a part of the annual preventive maintenance checks offered under the Master Protection Agreement.

The pint ratings are based on maximum fan speed, as it increases the amount of air the cooling fins are exposed to. Every dehumidifier is rated this way. We don't rate car gas mileage based on having a car full of luggage, two people, and a dog in it. The ratings are simple objective descriptions of its maximum capability.

The control panels are the same type of system used on dishwashers, ranges, and microwaves. These have been used for a long time, and have proven both very reliable while also being inexpensive.

I hope that clears up what appear to be some misconceptions about dehumidifiers in general, and Kenmore dehumidifiers in particular.

By the way, SHC employees have badges on this site. If you go to any person's profile, you can see all their badges. You'll see that I have an "Associate" badge. JulieK has a "Moderator" badge. There are no secrets here. We're all clearly identified as exactly what we are. I can guarantee you that the legal department is fully familiar with the mysears.com and mykmart.com sites, and they pass legal muster, else they would not be seen in their current forms. Thank you for your concern.

posted on December 19, 2009 at 06:12AM
 
In response to BlueCrewGuyInMA's post from December 18 2009 11:05PM

About the badges,  I believe I have detected a few without and some admitted without.  Would they be imposters? Of course I belive that some folks just log on to read hundreds of reviews. yeah I do.... I believe that.... I do..... I do...

posted on March 18, 2010 at 08:46PM
 

Please advise if you've ever heard about or used the Oreck Plus Air Purifier as per ads on TV?  I am trying it now and was is about $400.00 and disappointed as so very heavy to move around (or to wash permanent filters included ) and not sure covers the sq ft I need even if I could easily move to the large rooms. .   Mainly the air is yet so DRY and only circulates the "stale" air even if purifies it.   i'm thinking need now need a humidifier too as opening dbl pane windows defeats the economy of this very efficient furnace heat I need winters. . Appreciate any suggestions on a solution and proper purifier you might recommend to buy?  

.  

posted on March 24, 2010 at 08:35PM
 

I have a kenmore dehumidifier.  The bucket basically fell apart and won't hang properly.  So, since it's a couple of years old, figured I'd buy another one.  The bucket alone costs $90.  Can you believe it?  The ****** plastic bucket costs $90 and I can buy a whole new unit for $150.  Something is wrong here.

I will be buying another one, it just won't be a Kenmore

posted on April 07, 2010 at 01:13PM
 

WE ARE CLOSING UP OUR 48 FOOT 5TH WHEEL FOR 5MONTHS THIS SUMMER IN CENTRAL FLORIDA. WE'RE THINKING OF RUNNING A SEARS 35 PINT DEHUMIDIFIER DIRECT OUT WITH A HOSE TO KEEP THE HUMIDITY DOWN IN OUR CAMPER.  WE ARE PLANNING ON HAIVING A  PERSON CHECK IT EVERY 2WKS.    I WOULD APPRECIATE YOUR THOUGHTS...

  THANKS IN ADVANCE

     DICK AND SHERRY H.

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