Water heaters are appliances that most people only think of at two times: when they stop working, and when they leak. These things usually happen around 10-15 years of life, but they don't have to. With a few minutes every year, your water heater's lifespan can be extended by a decade or even more.
BEFORE IT'S INSTALLED
First, when your water heater is being installed, ask the installer to remove the plastic valve at the bottom and replace it with a brass ball valve (these are available at your local home improvement store for about $7). This will do a couple things. It will make a much more durable connection for a hose (we'll get into that soon), and will eliminate any leaking that the old plastic valve would have after being used over time. Minerals get caught in the plastic valve, and create channels through which water can leak. A ball valve does not allow leaks, so it makes for a much stronger barrier.
AFTER IT'S INSTALLED
Second, inspect the connections every year. Look at where the water enters and exits the water heater. Look for any signs of moisture or corrosion wherever pipes connect. If you have PEX, check where the PEX joins to the water heater's nipples. If you suspect you may have a leak, dry the area completely with paper towels, and then watch the spot where you think there may be a leak.
If you do have a leak, there are a couple options. You can attempt to plug the leak with epoxies, which might work, though solid epoxies don't tend to stick well to metals, and even liquid epoxies or cold welds can fail when trying to seal over an active leak. Or, you can remove the connection and re-connect the pipe. This will involve soldering and pipe fitting, so if you're not comfortable doing your own plumbing, I recommend hiring a plumber.
TEST IT
Every 6 months, you should place a container under the outlet for the pressure relief valve on the side of the tank near the top. This valve is designed to release excessive pressure due to overheating. To test this valve, with the container ready to catch the water, turn the lever outward, so hot water comes out of the outlet (this water will be very hot, so be careful!). It only needs to run for a few seconds, and this will allow mineral deposits to be flushed off the probe that controls the valve, as well as any that may have built up inside the valve itself. Testing this valve can help prevent catastrophic tank failure.
DRAIN IT
At least once a year, you should drain your tank a bit, to help eliminate some of the sediments that may have built up on the bottom of the tank. Yes, even in a "self-cleaning" tank this can and will happen. This is where you'll be happy you switched to a ball valve at the bottom of the tank.
Shut off the electricity/gas to your water heater. Take a garden hose and connect the female end to the valve on the tank. Shut off the water going to and from the tank. Run the hose to a sink or a bucket or out a door to the outside. Open the ball valve at the bottom of the tank. There should be a little bit of flow, and then turn the water to the tank on gradually. When the water comes out clear from the hose, you can turn the water off and then shut the valve. To see if the water is clear, either use a white bucket to catch some water or use a glass with a white piece of paper.
DRAIN IT COMPLETELY
About every 5 years, you may want to do an internal inspection. This will help you determine if your electric water heater's elements are in good condition, and help you determine if your water heater (gas or electric) has a suitable anode(s).
Shut off the gas/electricity to your water heater. Connect a hose to the ball valve at the bottom of the tank. Shut off the water going to and from the tank. Turn on only the hot water for a sink above the water heater (or more than one, if possible) and remove the air screens on the faucets (you'll see why soon). With the hose going to a sink or outside, open the ball valve, and then turn on the water coming from the tank to the rest of the house. The tank will drain itself down to the bottom over the course of anywhere from 15-45 minutes, depending on the size of the tank.
Once it has drained completely, remove the pressure relief valve. Use a pipe wrench and gently but firmly turn it counterclockwise (when replacing the valve, wrap the threads in teflon tape and return it to its original orientation, and be sure it is tight without forcing it with too much effort).
Once the valve is off, you will be able to look inside the tank. I recommend having a flashlight so you can see better. You should be able to identify the anode(s), which will be protruding from the top of the tank down into the middle. You should also be able to see the inlet pipe, which is usually a plastic tube that goes from the top to the very bottom of the tank. If there is excessive mineral build-up on the anode(s), gently tap the deposits off by inserting something long enough to reach the anode and knocking the minerals off. Be gentle! There's no sense is breaking stuff for no good reason. :)
If your water heater is electric, you should be able to open the panels that house the heating elements. Do so, and inspect the elements. If they are showing signs of corrosion, consider replacing them. This will increase the efficiency and reliability of the water heater.
If you water heater runs on gas, inspect the burner plate. It should be darkened from the flames but should not have holes in it. If the burner plate appears damaged, consider having a technician replace the plate.
Put the pressure relief valve back onto the tank. Then, turn on the water going to the tank. Allow the flowing water to drive the sediments in the tank around and out the hose (not all of it will get out, but a good portion will, and the rest should come out over subsequent flushings). Turn off the water going into the tank. Close the ball valve at the bottom of the tank. Then, turn the water going into the tank on again. The tank will fill (this will take a few minutes). When it's finished filling, go upstairs and watch as the water comes out of the sink. When the water comes out clear and without particulate (a glass is handy for this), then turn the sink's hot water off. Then, replace the air screen.
When all sinks are completely shut off and the air screens have been reinstalled, you can turn the water heater back on according to the manufacturer's instructions. Remove the hose, and in about an hour you'll have hot water again.
By doing these simple things, a water heater can last 20, 30, 40 years, perhaps longer. Your mileage may vary, but there's no reason a water heater should be considered a 10 year product. Take care of it, and it will take care of you. Neglect it, and you'll very likely end up paying for it when you least expect it.
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