How do I choose an Air Conditioner?

Air conditioners are extremely easy to figure out. First, go to Sears. The boxes for most air conditioners will have a chart on them showing what BTU range for what size room. Then, if the room has sunny windows, add 500 BTU per window; if it's a kitchen, add 1500 BTU; for every person beyond two who will be in the room, add 500 BTU (I believe these are all approximately correct numbers...I have a million different numbers in my head). If you don't see air conditioners in boxes at the store, there will be pamphlets that have all this information in them, along with a line-up of most of the models Sears carries. From there, select the right size and take it home. It doesn't get much easier!

A personal habit of mine is to simply measure the dimensions of the window and then buy the highest BTU model that has an energy star certification on a 110volt cord. I like overkill - i'd rather have the ability to make a room considerably colder than is comfortable, then just the ability to make it comfy. that way, anyone regardless of their personal preference to room temperature should be able to be happy in the room, and on unnaturally hot days, i wont have to worry either.

But thats just me. And its not a scientific process at all!

It's also a wasteful process. If the air conditioner is too large for the room, it will use excessive energy and get cold too fast, and the air will not have been sufficiently dehumidified, resulting in a clammy room. If the air conditioner is too small for the room, it will take too long to cool, and the air conditioner will run full-blast all the time, again wasting energy. The best method is to use the chart at Sears for determining A/C size. Then the A/C will cool AND dehumidify the room effectively. You wouldn't buy a car based on the width of your driveway, why buy an A/C with the same philosophy?

Go to the Searws store get ahold of the brochure and it shall recommend the type you may need and their are plenty of internet sites for info also.

Also, if the room is in an open area (Living Room), keep in mind that without closing doors, the air conditioner will attempt to cool the larger combined area - lowering the unit's effective cooling power to the one main room.

Closing doors to contain the cool air and to reduce the load on the unit works.

And, in a pinch, even tacking up a temporary "blanket" doorway covering improves a unit's performance on especially hot days.

Anything 18,000 BTU or up IS a 240 volt unit.

Don't buy one - if you're not prepared to hire an Electrician to run the higher voltage to your new BIG unit.

I accepted returns of AC's for years at one Sears store and the biggest issue is the initial "sizing" of the unit.

The little 10 x 10, 5000 BTU units will probably NOT meet your needs.

All AC's "leak" some water out of the back.

Some into a tray, that the internal fan attempts to evaporate and some out a little drain hole in the back of the unit.

You can even install a drain hose to the air conditioner to "water" a nearby plant.

Also, some apartment/duplex dwellers are not allowed to have anything sticking out of their windows.

The Sears portable AC unit addresses this complaint, very well.

Good luck with your choice.

Sears has a lot of good units.

i need a 18.000 btu energy saver and ii am broke.  Aren't we all.  I have been living for 3 years with a 8,000 btu that ct me 200 a month keeping it on high ti do anything, my landlord also bought a used one.  Go figure.  Any suggestions.  dawnie ludwig at yahoo please help if you have a good answer but no weirdo please.  god bless you

How large an area are you trying to cool with the air conditioner? Are you aware that an A/C that large will require a 220v outlet, rather than the standard 110v? Do you use a fan to circulate the air, increasing the A/C's cooling efficiency and increasing the feeling of coolness? Do you have any ceiling fans?

To cool this area =  Look for this size air conditioner

100 to 150 square feet = 5,000 BTUs

150 to 250 square feet = 6,000 BTUs

250 to 300 square feet = 7,000 BTUs

300 to 350 square feet = 8,000 BTUs

350 to 400 square feet = 9,000 BTUs

400 to 450 square feet = 10,000 BTUs

450 to 550 square feet = 12,000 BTUs

550 to 700 square feet = 14,000 BTUs

700 to 1,000 square feet = 18,000 BTUs

1,000 to 1 400 square feet = 24,000 BTUs

Is there a difference between "through the wall" and a "rear breather" air conditioner?

The one I need will be going into an existing sleeve in a wall.  It will be open to the outside wall of the building (flush with the building exterior) and will have a metal grill over the back.

 Ok here is a tricky question.  I am going to start to work out of my garage (20x20 not insulated) what compensating additions should I make for the correct BTU? I live in Arizona where temperatures get to 115+ degrees during the summer months. 

Please name a few   QUIET   single room air conditioners 5000 or 6000 btus  that will allow me to sleep