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Lockedauger

posted on November 16, 2009 at 04:09PM Inappropriate?

what if you hit a hard object with the auger and it bends what is the replacement cost

 

replies: 13 latest post: December 16, 2009 at 05:25PM by MrMobileMechanic
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posted on November 16, 2009 at 04:54PM
 
In response to dkan3783's post from November 16 2009 04:09PM

Why not bend it back?

posted on November 16, 2009 at 10:42PM
 

Yeah, bend that sucker. It's not going to kill the machine to have a slightly imperfect auger blade. Now, if it bent the auger shaft or the crank shaft, that would be different.

posted on November 17, 2009 at 10:56AM
 

Sears sells ball pein hammers.

This may be an excuse for a nice... Craftsman 24 oz. ball pein hammer?

posted on December 09, 2009 at 06:08PM
 

How do I remove the Auger Assembly (RH side)?    I removed the six 5/16-18x.75 screws (3 from each side, left and right), but the crank shaft is still stuck in the gear case assembly.  There has to be a simple way to free the shaft w/o having to either take apart the gear case assembly or knock out the spring pins from the impeller so I can slide the Auger Assembly off.

posted on December 09, 2009 at 09:10PM
 

Uhhh....  next, please.    Dubleaa, get the model # so we can look at a schematic but it sounds like one of these, is the auger housing welded or bolted:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fB0211005-00007.png

posted on December 09, 2009 at 09:20PM
 

6 horsepower 24 inch Dual Stage, model number 536.888400  There is some play in the shaft after removing the side screws but it still doesn't seem to want to release.  I don't want to force it but it doesn't appear to be welded and there are no visible bolts...? 

The scematic link you attached looks like the one I have in my owners manual.  I dropped the belly pan and cannot see how it would be user friendly to remove the three bolts around the Impeller Assembly.  The welded side panels won't allow enough slack to pull out from the side so again I am stumped.

posted on December 09, 2009 at 09:49PM
 
In response to Dubleaa's post from December 09 2009 09:20PM

user friendly

Cute, can I use that? lol Here's the schematic for that gear box. The model I am using is 536.887990, a 29" Murray, similar to yours, they just computer generated the old hand-drawn manual illustrations. The auger shaft is one piece, so looks like the whole impeller shaft comes forward. Those three bolts are listed as backordered for the '799. Good luck.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fB0211005-00004.png

posted on December 10, 2009 at 09:40AM
 

Thanks, I should have more time tonight to dig into it so lets hope I find a way in and get it fixed before the next Snownami hits the Upper Midwest!

posted on December 10, 2009 at 04:13PM
 
In response to Dubleaa's post from December 09 2009 09:20PM

no visible bolts...? 

You did check and remove the shearbolt out of each auger, yes?

posted on December 10, 2009 at 04:30PM
 

Yes I did.  The one on the right side broke the nut loose and before I noticed it the screw top of the shearbolt had started ripping the auger sleeve, thus the need to replace.  If I take apart the gear box to free it up are there any special steps I should be mindful of?  Do I just need to put a good bead of grease between the adjoining case parts to create a "weather seal" or do I stay away from this option all together?  I am just a novice and knowledgeable enough to be dangerous so I don't want to open a can of worms I can't handle and double the repair bill. 

posted on December 10, 2009 at 04:41PM
 

This could be a problem, I try to make sure my driveway, a very large one, is all cleared before the snow starts to fly, but even then small stuff gets in the way, good luck.

posted on December 10, 2009 at 10:26PM
 
In response to Dubleaa's post from December 10 2009 04:30PM

Not on my list of accomplishments either but the diagram looks like the gearbox should remain intact, its a full width auger shaft. I would slide the impeller shaft forward with as little rotation as possible so it goes back in.. When the new auger goes on, they should look like this W to feed the impeller. 

posted on December 16, 2009 at 05:25PM
 

To do it right, you'll have to separate the auger housing from the engine side of the snow blower.  Then you have to loosen up the set screw(s) on the pulley.  THEN the auger/gearbox assembly will fall out.  It's more common that we have to service them this way than the ones that just "pop" out.

Tom

Mr. Mobile Mechanic, Portsmouth, NH

MisterMobileMechanic.com

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