Kenmore Progressive Canister Electrical Connection

Okay; I'll try to type you through the procedure, since I just did it, and you were the one that identified why I am having the same problem.  Get the wand extended out more than half way.  Next step, Where the button is for extending and contracting the length of the wand there are 2 tabs, one on each side.  You'll need to pry those out and get them to come all the way out.  Then, at the top of the wand, at the part you push the button in to remove the wand extension from the handle, you'll see there are 2 (two) tabs on each side on the button's holder.  You'll need to pry that apart just enough for it to disengage.  Next pry the long plastic part (that's at the back side of the wand), and when it comes apart the whole assembly will slide down exposing the component that has the male electrical prongs.  This electrical part will now just slide off the flexible power tape strip.  Replace that part, put it back together and you should be in business.  I personally think it will fail again, since the system allows too much slop, or movement, which is why we are getting the arcing.  I'd like to know what you've spent for the electrical components.  Good luck!

dangrqa, Thanks so much for your detailed description on this disassembly.Greatly appreciated. I see all the components you itemize, will try to accomplish this today and let you know how I make out. I agree that there is too much slop in the assembly, which leads to this problem. Probably planned obsolescense! Mine is the white model, No.116.25614506. Don't know what model you have, but possibly these electrical components are generic to a series of models. I called 1-800-366-PART (1-800-366-7278) to order. The wiring harness in the handle was $14.99, and the terminal cover in the wand cost $9.49. With tax and shipping (I paid extra for expedited shipping), the total was $45.00. If a person didn't want to get into the wand dis-assembly, a new assembly (part No. KC99PCPMZV06) cost $72.99 (I inquired). Again, thanks for your response.

dangrqa,

I just dis-assembled and re-assembled everything per your instructions and it worked out great! I had a bit of trouble getting the power tape strip back into the male component (I didn't want to bend or break it), but all is good now. Thanks again.

I absolutely LOVE Kenmore canisters, but every single one of them will do this over time! A short always developes causing loss of power to the power head

I also love the vacuum however, I have two of the same vacuums and sent one away to Sear to fix about 6 months ago.. c. $100.  Now my second vacuum is doing the same thing.  It now constantly loses power.  This seems like a defect that they Sears should fix at no cost.  I hate to send the second one away for another $100.

I'm also having the same problem.  I am glad I now know what the issue is, but since this is my second kenmore cannister, I am sure it is my last.  The wheels on the powerhead have fallen off, the plastic clip holding the hose into the cannister body has cracked.  My first cannister had all the plastic pieces holding the wands together break.  I personally will never purchase another - they must use the cheapest blend of plastic, and now I'll have to replace the wiring harness!!!!!  I went out and bought a Bissell.  And I love it!!!!!

I just started noticing the same problem--I can get power to the head if I twist the handle a little, but that is not along term solution. If there has been no failure yet--is there a way to fix the short?

B8fish,

When I first noticed the problem, I also was able to get the powerhead to operate by twisting the handle. That's when I took a look at the connection between the handle and wand, and saw the results of the short between the connections (arcing which resulted in melting of the female copper contacts in the handle, and burning of the surrounding hard rubber insulating material). That really smelled as it was happening. Unfortunately, there is no real fix for an electrical short other than replacing the mating components  as described in previous posts. You might get away with replacing only the wiring harness in the handle, but I replaced both that and the terminal cover in the wand (belt and suspender mindset). Taking the handle apart to replace the wiring harness isn't terribly difficult (a series of screws, prying apart the plastic halves of the handle, then removing the various wires from the old wiring harness, and placing them on a new one). If you do this yourself, make sure you only remove one wire at a time and place it on the corresponding terminal of the new harness. That way errors won't be made placing wires in the wrong place. I took photos of the wire positions on the failed harness assembly before disassembly, so I had a record of correct placement on the new unit. As far as dis-assembly of the wand to replace the corresponding male component, see the 11/20/09 post by dangrga. Hope this has been helpful.  

I read on another post suggesting that the reason this happens is due to the engaging/disengaging the power head with the power still ON! Say, if your vacuuming carpet, and use the quick release to use an attachment while the power head is still running, that this can cause the short to develop in the connections; by not doing this, you shoudln't have this problem.

This may be true, but in my case, I never used the quick release with the power still running on the power head, I just flipped the power to the power head OFF on the handle, vacuum itself still running, and used an attachment. There may have been one or two instances where I mistakenly didn't do this, it's very easy when vacumming and stopping to quickly use an attachment for your finger to slip since the control is actually on the handle, but overall, I never did this and still, ultimately, a short developed.

Mark40511,

I, too, have always turned the switch off before disconnecting the powerhead to change attachments. This electrical problem happened IN SPITE doing everything correctly.

I read that other post (3rd Kenmore, 25 years-Great Products) dated August 30, 2009. That individual was quite abusive towards people he doesn't know, assuming they MUST HAVE caused the problem by not disconnecting the powerhead while power was being delivered to it. Well, you and I are a couple of data points that prove otherwise. These are machines. Stuff happens. I don't think any manufacturer is above producing a product with an occasional lousy design.

I have a different problem with my Kenmore canister model 116.25614506.  Purchase 9/10/06, the switch on the handle will not turn the vacuum off.  If I disconnect the hose completely and plug the vacuum in it runs.  Only way to turn it off is pull the plug!  Any suggestions?

The motors draw a considerable amount of current, so, pulling the plug would cause an arc.  Sparkplugs wear out, because the electrical arc vaporizes the metal when it fires.  It happens slowly, as the electorde is rather durable.

The pins in the handle, are usually made of brass, and are usually rolled to shape, and are hollow.  I have seen them solid, as well.

What do the pins look like?  A little burnt, maybe?  Is anything a little burnt?

Oh boy with the latest National Electrical Code, arc falut breakers are being installed in new residences.  When they sense an arc (and it doesnt have to be much) they trip the circuit off.  As this technolgy is installed and retrofitted into existing residences, I can see lots of connections such as described causing tripped circuits and the rest will be product quality history.

Hope this provides helpful insight for future products.

Really?

My house is a little over 5 years old and my Kenmore trips a breaker regularly! I thought something was wrong with my breaker box or something. Doesn't happen all the time, just about twice a month, and I vacuum about three times per week.

NJKevin

I had the same thing happen to me after a week of owning it. I took it in, they fixed it, and haven't had any issues with that problem since.

This must be a conspiracy, I too had a problem with a short in the wand handle.  On 11/12/2009 my husband took our sears canister in to be repaired.  Unbeknown to me he recieved and estimate of $195.81!! which also included a broken power mate base replacement.  I received the repaired appliance back on 12/19/2009 and was happily vacuuming as I was using a old bissell upright that had been in the closet for years.  I thought I was going to be furious when 15 minutes later the sears canister stop working again-this time it was a broken belt which luckly I can fix myself ---Then I found out how much the repair had cost.  I took 5 steps backward, went to the closet to retrieve that old bissell cleaner and gave it and myself a good workout.  My husband did not realize that for @$55.00 more I could have gotten a new vacuum cleaner-oh well.  At least sear did return the old parts to me, I will be printing out all discussion on how to fix the wand handle because next time I will be doing it myself.

Really but I doubt you have the arc faul breakers.  But it is just another thing to consider.

Probably not, but after reading your post, I remembered the vacuum tripping a breaker on occasion, which I thought was strange, so it made me wonder :)

concerning the arc fault breakers.. they are going to be tough to retrofit in a code upgrade. Why?  Light switches... you may not see it but they arc just enough to trip these breakers when you turn the light on or off.  So on a retrofit all the lighting will have to be seperated from the plugs.  Lovely...

My 15 year old WisperTone / Power-Mate has the arc melt on the handle also.  My wife said the head kept lossing power, so I cleaned the rollers and the head.  I put it back together only to notice it was shorting out.  Dissasembled the head again to check the wiring.  Nothing.  Finally I remember getting a shock earlier this year near the handle.  Sure enough, one of the prongs had signs of arc and melted the female end.  Usually I can get away with just replacing the Power-Mate head.  Looks like I'll be replacing it all together.  I like the Kenmore brands but this arcing has me concerned.