Dishwashers Discussion Board

Maytag MDB6759 review?

dizzyland — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:31:57 GMT

I believe so. The OP said mdb6759 and my model # is mdb6759aws... Which if I'm not mistaken just notates that its stainless steel.

dishwasher not completing wash cycle

terryf — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 22:59:50 GMT

Some models have two microswitches in the latch, if the switch on the right makes contact the unit will run, the switch on the left closes the neutral to the heat element, if it doesn't close the heater wont heat the water and satisfy the tempature sensor. The strike is a thin metal bracket the sticks out at the middle/top of the frame and catches the latch. this can be bent slightly down and to the left to contact that switch. that might solve your problem.

Maytag MDB6759 review?

SHC-StephenC — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 21:36:41 GMT

I am assuming that yours is the same model as the original subject line for this thread. If I am wrong, please include the model/serial number of your dishwasher. It makes a lot of difference in the trouble-shooting.

Shopping new dishwashers, help

Sean921 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:43:21 GMT

Heh not to sound smart, but do you plan on putting glass, bones and beads into your dishwasher disposal system? On a serious note though you might want to look at 13122, I think this is along the lines of what you're looking for.

Maytag MDB6759 review?

dizzyland — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:27:32 GMT

Thanks for the quick reply! Well, it wasn't lose wiring because I disconnected and reconnected everything and it still has no power. I tested the power as well on the lead coming from the wall and the unit is getting power from the cable. I just came home from the hardware store with a multimeter and I'm having problems figuring out where and how to use it to test the various components for continuity. I've been reading up online but can't find clear step by step instructions on how to do it.

In fact, I think all this research has just confused me more! I keep reading about bad door latches (as you mentioned) being an issue with a lot of dishwashers but this one has the control panel hidden on the top so it is supposed to have power with the door open as well. Seems like from what I read is that the latch switch is just supposed to power the unit down when the door is open but I could certainly be wrong. Would a faulty latch switch cause a lack of power in dishwashers that are supposed to be operable (lights on control panel and such) with the door open? Also, what's this about a thermal fuse that I keep reading about elsewhere? Does this unit have one? If so, I sure can't find it! Sorry for so many questions... I'm a little lost!

And finally... I also wanted to let you know that i inspected all the wiring throughout and I don't see anything obviously wrong. All the wires look perfect. I also checked out the circuit board and I don't see any discoloration or burns of any kind.

Thanks again for your help with this. I'm so sick of washing the dishes by hand!

Shopping new dishwashers, help

Momwithteens — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 17:41:39 GMT

I am shopping new dishwashers. I dont want the disposer. Glass and bones and bead don't go through them. I want the little cup in the bottom that collects the larger food particles and things that are not supposed to go through the motor, like the European brands. I also like the sieve floor on the barrel inside, instead of that round contraption with the slots to allow chunky food to build up against it, and it cant be removed easily to dump. I have teen agers, we scrape and load but dont rinse first.

Your pictures on your web sight show only the face of the dishwasher, and distance shots of the interiors. I need to see the bottom and whether the element is inclosed or exposed. All opinions are welcome. I have a few days before my kids start chucking the dirty dishes into the back yard.

Maytag MDB6759 review?

SHC-StephenC — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:55:37 GMT

tberd & dizzyland: First thing to check would be for a loose wire nut in the connection box behind the toe panel (open the ciruit breaker first). Other possiblilities include a door switch (latch) or touchpad issue.

Call 1-800-4-MY-HOME for service. Parts are available via searspartsdirect.com

Maytag MDB6759 review?

dizzyland — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:10:10 GMT

I'm having the exact same problem. No power... then power for a couple days... now its completely dead! I've scoured the internet trying to figure out what is wrong with it and I can't figure it out. Also can't find anyone with parts for it. ANY IDEAS would be most helpful. I tried calling maytag but they didn't have anyone who could help me.

Loud grinding noise: 15 month old dishwasher

John473 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:14:25 GMT

Angela,

Look check this video to see what is causing your dishwasher bearing failure.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNQvDqzMZV4

Lets say I own a 1000 stores in North America that sell a lot of dishwashers. Before I brand a manufacturers dishwasher and sell it as my own, I have my tech's check it out. They know when a dishwasher has a poor design such as a crappy seal gasket. I want my business to grow and provide good products to my customers, so I do not sell this dishwasher. So why isn't Sears doing this?

Looking at this Kenmore Elite model, I will bet that if the dishwasher was leveled out so that the motor was angled higher then the shaft bearing, any water getting through the pump seal would not have run along the motor shaft to the bearing. Water does not run up hill. Yes, I probably would have gotten 5 year of use from this dishwasher.

Loud grinding noise: 15 month old dishwasher

AngelaWittman — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:34:15 GMT

I purchased a Kenmore Ultra Quiet dishwasher in July of 2008, and it began making a loud grinding sound a week ago... It stopped working two days ago. I will not be buying any more Kenmore appliances, even though I had been a loyal customer for 25 years.

dishwasher not completing wash cycle

sears1234321 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:07:52 GMT

If it stalls and quits running, then there is a problem. Bluecrew guy could be right, if it keeps running. If you actually have to hit cancel/drain you may have a problem with the cellanoid valve (I almost certainly mispelled that) or it really could be anything. Call a service guy from sears.... In the Chicago at least, if they come out and it can't be fixed or is to expensive, they give you a coupon for 65 or a hundred if you spend than 700 a new one (helps negate that charge to get it looked at). Hopefully you are under warranty though, or covered a protection agreement so you don't have to worry about it.

kenmore dishwasher model 665

sears1234321 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:01:21 GMT

Sometimes, and I mean sometimes, you can go to your fuse box and pull the one that sends power to your dishwasher, wait a couple minutes then replace it. There are microprocessors back there that are similiar to a computer, and doing so can work like a reboot if one gets frozen. If that does not work it is unfortunately likely that you are looking at having to replace the control panel. If your warranty is up, and you are not covered by a protection agreement it may be more economical to purchase a new one. That just depends on exactly what model though, those boards run between 300 and 500 generally to replace.

Kitchen Aid probs

sears1234321 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:54:58 GMT

Yeah they have endless amounts of electronics and sensors. If it happens again, and maybe even now call a service guy to look at it if you bought it within the last year. Get it noted that you had this problem, cause it could come back, and if it is outside of a year then it's no longer under manufacturer warranty.

Loud grinding noise: 15 month old dishwasher

sears1234321 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:51:25 GMT

I also sell appliances at sears, I'm in Oakbrook not far from you, and the response style of Bluecrew guy is absolutely embarrassing to me. While he is correct, he was absolutely rude. While after working at sears and seeing firsthand that applinces do break often (yes fairly often not rarely) and the expense involved to fix them I probably would buy one if I purchased a new appliance, I say probably because they are expensive, and I work at sears. Note that kenmore is consistenly rated top 3 in almost any consumer reports magazine for reliability, and the kenmore problems occurring from this site, believe me every manufacturer has them.

That being said I always have felt stuff like this should be taken care of by the store too (and sometimes it is at sears, yes being nice helps) but after working their for about a year and a half now, I am absolutely amazed by the amount of people that I see running in wanting something fixed out of warranty that sears would most certainly fail if it were to eat everyone of them. Keep in mind people shop at sears for great prices, and if you are going to fix every problem that arises outside of manufacturers warranty you cannot affford to sell these things at great prices. Look at the mark up at Nordstrom, just so you can return almost anything rather you bought it there or not. However, when it comes to appliance retailers, I will say that sears probably does make more exceptions then others, Go to grants, they will not deal with anything at all, they will give you a phone number to the manufacture and tell you to call them. ABT is not going to help you unless you have their version of the protection agreement, and best buy, fry's, lowes, home depot, do try like we do, but the bottom line is we can more exceptions because we have our own service and parts department allowing us to do it more cost efficiently. Again that being said we cannot take care of everyone this happens to. Imagine yourself owning a business, do you feel that you would be responsible to fix every problem with whatever it is you sold after the warranty ended. You would not be able to stay in business. We do our best to get you a good product, and when it's in warranty we don't even make you call the manufacturer, we just fix it and take care of all that hassle on our end, which believe me sometimes ends in us eating it ourselves because of the defects clause on warranties. Again I am in sympathy with you, it really sucks when you get the bad one, I wish, and sears does to that we could just give everyone a new one, and fix every problem that occurs, the realities are that if we charged a price that would allow us to do this and be in business then you probably would have bought it somewhere else. It would be the price with a protection agreement built it. Take a 5 year warrantied Dyson vacuum cleaner for instance, are they so expensive because it cost so much to make, no they cost so much because the manufacturer has to back a 5 year warranty. You cannot expect retailers to sell you something at a bissell price and and then personally back it like a dyson every single time.

I do hope you got a new one, or this one fixed for free, and I really hope that I did not come off like Bluecrew guy. I did want to throw out the realities you learn once you work in retail though, and that sears really does do their best to go above and beyond every customer. I know it doesn't seem that way in the midst of a problem, but honeslty ask yourself where you could have purchased that dishwasher that would have paid to have it fixed. If sears wouldn't I am guessing that others wouldn't have either. I will say maybe ABT if any, they are also a good retailer, but I highly doubt it.

Dishwasher Kenmore Elite 665-15959000 2 dashes in the LED panel

sears1234321 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:58:56 GMT

I sell appliances at sears and I can tell you that there is no quick fix at all. If the electronic panel is broken there is no hope for it... All these dishwashers are all run electronically and there are way too many sensors, if you find a way to get it running you may nevr stop it, or be able to drain it, or who knows.

What you are waiting for is a PA authorization number (I'm almost positive, the one's sold through service are a little different. The one's sold at the store you get authorization for whatever it costs to replace with a similar dishwasher. To expidite the process, call a salesperson at the store, we work on commission and at least in our store would call and get it for you. If that doesn't work ask them for the number to National customer service, I don't have it with me at the moment.

As far as controls on top being more reliable, I've never heard such a thing, I can tell you that the top rated dishwashers for reliability by almost every consumer reports magazine all have them on front, and when they are on top they are far more expensive to replace. If you bought the dishwasher in 2000 though, you actually got a pretty life out of it. Average expectancy is 8 years, and like I said there are so many electronics and sensors in the things now, that it's amazing they last long when you think there is hot water bloasting around the proximity. I would stick with Kenmore, Bosch, or Kitchen Aid, If you need a lot of space then don't go with bosch, they are much smaller on the inside. If your looking top of the line get Kenmore Elite or Kitchen Aid Superba. Something mid line ask them about the new Kenmore with handle and top controls, that runs at 54 Db's, can't remember item number, If noise is not a major concern for you get model 1374 for mid range. I highly reccomend getting the protection agreement in the store on any Dishwasher. It will run 179 for five years on a mid range, and 279 on a high end. Dishwashers, though more energy efficient now days are also problematic, and ridiculously expensive to fix. Again service sells different agreements when you call for repair, so I am not sure of the details of it, but in the store you are completely covered for anything, full replacement value if it cannot be fixed, and the reinstallation is free. After the 5 years is up then you can extend it again. I think they charge you like 50 dollars more, do the math you will find buying that twice for 10 years, or 3 times for 15 years, if your lucky enough to get it to last that long, is cheaper or roughly the same price as replacing it on your own when it dies.

Loud grinding noise: 15 month old dishwasher

grannie09 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:48:42 GMT

My daughter just replaced her Sears dishwasher that she had for not quite 4 years. The motor died

I have had a Maytag for 25 years and the only problem I have had is that the know wore out and now I have to use a pair of pliers to start it!!!! This I can handle.

Loud grinding noise: 15 month old dishwasher

jackeeno — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:25:13 GMT

After having an Insinkerator dishwasher with absolutely NO problems at our home where we have lived for 10 years (I believe the machine was even here for at least a year or two before we moved in), I now find I may have to replace it----not because it stopped working or has mechanical problems, but because the top rack and one of its support arms has rusted through and is in danger of breaking under a full load of glassware--and try as I did, it is just about impossible to get replacement parts for a machine that old. After reading the horror stories here, I really am perplexed as to which manufacturer to go to for a replacement. As others have said here, they just don't make them like they used to--it is beyond belief that after spending $500+ (and with the higher end models, close to $1000 or more!!) that major problems show up in as little as a year or two requiring a cash outlay almost as much as the original machine itself (if the extended warranty was not purchased) to repair. I had almost decided on a Whirlpool dishwasher at our local Sears store, but after seeing such a mass of complaints here about Whirlpools, Sears and Kenmores, I think I will try a bit harder to see if I can find a repair man who might be able to get an upper rack assembly into my perfectly functioning 10+ year old Insinkerator unit. I figure I will still come out hundreds of dollars ahead and not have to deal with the untold aggrevation others in this discussion have gone through. We don't plan on staying here much longer anyway and if the older machine finally dies mechanically somehow, it will be someone elses problem--Would hate to spend $500 to $1000 to end up with a piece of cheaply made Chinese crap that, the likes of which is being forced on all of us daily. Nothing made today is made to last--replacement rather than repair is the solution--and the scenario repeats again over and over.

Kitchen Aid probs

mccanmi — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:48:29 GMT

Its working now. Thank you very much I just hope that I dont have to keep switching the breaker...

Kitchen Aid probs

mccanmi — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:14:01 GMT

KUDI01ILBT4 - THANKS!

Kitchen Aid probs

bilyeu75 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:01:43 GMT

Turn of all power (at the fuse panel in your home) to unit for 20 minutes. Most new appliance have small little micro processors that can get confused. Kinda like reboot on your PC. Just FYI heavy and rinse only are considered waste settings so if you have a energy consev button you would not be allowed to use either setting. That would be a rare item item on a Kitchenaid however.