Suspension Discussion Board

Wheel Camber Quandary

lightsaber — Thu, 10 Nov 2011 06:02:46 GMT

I would guess that the coil springs are original as I can see a small colored paint smear on each of them. I don't know if aftermarket springs would have these same markings. Thank You for all the information, and recommendation jeffprime!

Wheel Camber Quandary

jeffprime — Thu, 10 Nov 2011 05:22:41 GMT

I'm afraid I can't answer your question in detail, but you have the gist of it correct, although I wouldn't use the running boards as a benchmark--they're too susceptible to shifting over the years. Generally you want to measure from a fixed point, such as the frame, in order to get your ride-height measurements.

A good alignment shop should have those specifications on hand, although they're rarely used in most alignments as springs wear out so SLOWLY. An old-school alignment man will know how to measure such things though, and factor that into his diagnosis of your suspension.

If those are really the OEM springs, though, I'd probably suggest replacing them due to sheer age and mileage at this point. It's almost certain that they'd have a degree of sag to them at this point. If they've been replaced before, then I'd get readings before making any decisions on it.

Wheel Camber Quandary

lightsaber — Wed, 09 Nov 2011 15:24:17 GMT

Can I check for worn springs by measuring the distance from the pavement to the flat spot under the running board on all four corners? The measurements I got range between 11 3/4 inches to 12 5/8 inches, and the tires have 6/32 tread left. The tire size is OEM, 215-70R16, and I was wondering if a factory ride height measurement is available?

Wheel Camber Quandary

lightsaber — Wed, 09 Nov 2011 12:17:55 GMT

Hi jeffprime;

Thanks for that very informative answer!

The springs, and / or control arms were at the top of my probable cause list, as the rear tires are showing wear on the inside edge. We had the RAV4 aligned close to a year ago by one local tire / alignment shop. They didn't inform us of any issues, so I am going to take it to a mechanic shop that does alignments for the camber issue. The closest Sears Automotive Center is 90 miles away, so I'll try the local shop first. Thank you much for the quick response!

Wheel Camber Quandary

jeffprime — Wed, 09 Nov 2011 09:26:02 GMT

Well first, I'd have someone take some readings on your alignment settings and see how far out of range they are, if any. Some vehicles are designed to have negative camber that will be offset whent he vehicle is loaded and in motion, so what you are seeing could be by design.

But assuming that it really is out of the specified range as set by Toyota, there are usually some aftermarket camber-kits that can be installed to push the top of the wheel back out towards vertical. I'm at home right now, so I can't look it up, but the guys down at your local Sears Auto Center should be able to help you out with that!

Something else to consider is the age and miles on your RAV4. Negative camber can sometimes be associated with weak springs. Springs are the primary load-bearing component in your suspension system. Literally, they are what holds your vehicle off the ground!! When they get old and weak, they can begin to sag lower than normal. When that happens, the vehicle itself will sit lower than normal. Due to the geometry involved, this will pull the top of the tires and wheels inwards towards the vehicle, causing that noticable camber that you're talking about. So while a camber-kit might artifically point your wheels back into the vertical, it's entirely possible that your veteran Toyota just needs some new springs!!

Wheel Camber Quandary

lightsaber — Sat, 05 Nov 2011 10:35:50 GMT

On a 1997 4 door, all wheel drive, Toyota RAV4, with roughly 250,000 miles, what is the best way to correct excess negative camber on the rear wheels? When our RAV4 is parked, the top of the tires are very noticeably pointing inward, and with the rear axle off the ground on jack stands, the top of the rear wheels are pointing slightly outward with positive camber. While still on the ground, I placed a 2 ft. level against each of the rear wheels and they were at least a quarter bubble off from level. I did not see anything out of order from under the vehicle! Thanks for all advice!

looking for shocks and struts

littlewolf1 — Wed, 15 Jun 2011 07:05:37 GMT

need a good replacement shocks and struts for a 2009 nissan xterra

need shocks

BGN — Wed, 08 Dec 2010 02:37:33 GMT

Hello...I have Monroe Sensa Tracs on my current Ford Explorer as well as my previous one...I was always happy with them...watch for installation to be offered at no charge for shocks and discounted for struts...I hope this helps...BGN

Shocks or Struts?

jeffprime — Sat, 27 Nov 2010 22:58:39 GMT

Presumably, when the new struts where installed, a wheel alignment was performed afterwards to reset the camber and caster settings. Usually during that process the front end (bushings, tie rods, ball joints, etc) is usually checked for any worn, damaged, or loose parts.

But chasing a noise can be one of the most aggravating processes for both the customer and the mechanic. It's a catch-22 of the vehicle not making the noise when on a lift, and the mechanic not being able to see where it's coming from while driving down the road. You can see the obviously worn or damaged parts, and there are some tests you can employ to rule some things out. But sometimes it devolves down to educated guesses. This can be a painful and expensive process for everyone involved.

Shocks or Struts?

bajakma — Fri, 26 Nov 2010 17:24:58 GMT

Ok mad, a valid point however he didn't say a rattle he said a noise when hitting a bump. A noise could be a tie rod end, strut bushings, sway bar bushing, broken bolt or a host of other things. The noise needs to be better defined, is it when cornering, going straight, all the time. sounds to me it could be anything from a bushing or insulator or any front end component.

need shocks

SHC-JudyM — Tue, 09 Nov 2010 14:17:22 GMT

The Monroe Sensa-Trac line will meet or exceed the OE shock performance. If you use the truck for hunting, fishing, towing a boat, off road use or hauling a load the Rancho line would be a good alternative. For a more specific answer, Monroe.com can help to identify the proper shocks for your vehicle.

need shocks

williamhold — Tue, 09 Nov 2010 00:15:12 GMT

reflex monroe are good

Shocks or Struts?

OurJeepLife — Tue, 12 Oct 2010 21:12:56 GMT

True, Jeff. I neglected to mention I too had the strut mounts replaced.. Was a good decision afterward.

Shocks or Struts?

jeffprime — Tue, 12 Oct 2010 20:23:37 GMT

As a habit I recommend having the strut mounts replaced at the same time you change the struts. You're already pulling the old one out with the strut anyway, so it's just as easy to put a new one in as the old one. The only cost is the part itself. To be honest, the mount can be considerably expensive in some cases, so I have a lot of customers decline it. But usually before the strut needs to be replaced again, that mount will start making noise. At which point they have to pay for the mount AND the labor (again!) to fix the problem.

It's just more cost-effective in the long run to do them both at once.

Shocks or Struts?

madgolfer — Tue, 12 Oct 2010 16:02:01 GMT

Sometimes that rattle isn't the strut but the strut bracket that the strut mounts to (as in passenger rear of every Camry or Solara I've ever ridden in). Nothing dangerous but annoying. Have them check the bracket too. Thanks for using MySears.

Shocks or Struts?

OurJeepLife — Tue, 12 Oct 2010 15:04:38 GMT

Typically, Struts are located on the front of your vehicle and shocks on the rear. As in our case I knew I needed new Monroe "Reflex" shocks and Struts. Because my vehicle (07 Jeep Commander) required them both.

Sears did the work and told me it would take 4 hours.. actually taking 3 hours and 58 minutes to install. Afterward installing new tires.. I was very busy that day for sure.

Along the way I did have or think of possible issues with the installation of the new shocks and struts mainly that I've upgraded them.. Simply means I've purchased a shock/strut which is rated higher then the standard shock the Commander came with. I wasn't happy with the "over" 50,000 shocks that were the jeep at the time.

The Commander drove like a boat instead of a tank.. bouncing around and often extreme bouncing.. Thats what happened at or about 50,000. So if you have more then 50 k on your Vehicle, then its best to have a Mech examine the suspension system on your Windstar.

The next issue or question I was facing, was the fact that I was getting a slightly larger tire.. (wider) and was concerned that it might rub or hit the Aluminum drop arm as seen in my albums. Having the Mech install one tire and then allowing me to check for clearance. I wasn't doubting the mech or Sears.. Just wanted to check this out for myself. If your getting new shocks & struts best start looking into having your breaks checked as well as your tires for uneven wear.

As for being charged for the service of Inspection via Sears.. I wasn't charged with a fee.. but some departments/shops do charge.. Tis best you speak with your local Sears Auto Service Center for more details.

Shocks or Struts?

cjw1020 — Tue, 12 Oct 2010 13:35:59 GMT

I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. In the front there is a noise when I hit bumps in the road. I asked my own personal mechanic and he said it sounds like the shocks and the springs need to be replaced on it. I haven't asked him to do the work yet because my brother said it's a hard job to do so be careful. I want to know if Sears will look at the car to see what I need replaced? Does that service cost anything? And I think I will be having Sears do the work because I know that your workers are certified to do the work.

shocks and struts

jeffprime — Sun, 10 Oct 2010 07:06:01 GMT

Exact prices will vary by market, but at the moment Monroe is running their "Shocktober" promotion, which features a 'Buy 3, Get 1' Free offer via mail-in rebate.

On the Camry from the OP, those are struts all the way around, and I would advise EXTREME CAUTION if you try to change these on your own. Unless you're a professional mechanic with the right tools and equipment there are MANY things that can go wrong with this!!

To begin with, the struts on the back end are notoriously difficult to replace, as the upper mount is about the same place where the back window, back seat, and trunk all come together. You'll have to empty out the trunk and crawl inside while you have the wheels off of your vehicle to undo that top mount. So make sure you have VERY sturdy jack-stands in place before attempting this.

The second problem is the struts themselves. You're going to need a spring-compressor to disconnect them from the coil-springs. DO NOT TRY TO TAKE THEM APART WITHOUT THE SPRINGS BEING FIRMLY AND SAFELY COMPRESSED WITH PROPER EQUIPMENT. I can not stress that strongly enough. That spring has a thousand pounds or so of tension, and when you undo that last nut, it will FIRE that strut like a CANNON! I have seen the hole that got put into a cinder-block wall when a spring compressor slipped and the the strut got fired THROUGH the bricks!!

And finally, you're going to need a professional shop to reset your wheel alignment afterwards. Because as soon as you undo the old struts from your spindles, you're going to lose all of your camber and caster settings.

If you haven't gotten the gist of it by now, I'd SERIOUSLY suggest letting your mechanics at your local Sears Auto Center do the dirty work for you. Not only do they know how to do it safely, quickly and efficiently, we're also running half-off of the labor to install your struts as well!! It might cost a few bucks more than doing it yourself, but the grief (and life!) you save could be your own.

shocks and struts

SHC-JudyM — Sat, 02 Oct 2010 18:46:04 GMT

I can't give you pricing for shocks w/installation and everything, it would be best if you called the location you want it brought to and ask them over the phone for a quote, or just bring it in for an estimate.

There are rebates, it is Shocktober through 10/31 - buy three get one on qualifying shocks/struts. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02871486000P?keyword=02871486000&viewType=gal&sLevel=0&prop17=02871486000&adCell=B1

shocks and struts

jaeves — Sat, 02 Oct 2010 17:37:02 GMT

How much does it cost to replace the rear shocks on my 07 ford pick up truck at your store today and do you have any rebates.